Below is a list of frequently asked questions that I receive. If you have a question that is not answered anywhere on this site, please feel free to contact me at devin@amphibiancare.com

1. Can I hold my pet amphibian?
2. Are mealworms a safe food to use?
3. Can I keep different kinds of amphibians and reptiles together?
4. Do I have to feed my amphibian live food?
5. Do you have any amphibians for sale?
6. Does my amphibian or reptile need to hibernate?
7. How do I get amphibians and reptiles to come to my yard?
8. I found an amphibian or reptile, how do I take care of it?
9. I found some tadpoles, how do I take care of them?
10. Is my frog a male or female?
11. My amphibian or reptile might be sick, what should I do?
12. My amphibian or reptile won't eat, what should I do?
13. My frog or salamander is bloated, what's wrong?
14. My frog is yawning, is this normal?
15. There are little white bugs in my tank, what are they and is it bad for my animal?
16. There are knats or fruit flies in my tank, how do I get rid of them?
17. What are good vitamin and mineral supplements to use and how do I use them?
18. What is gut loading?
19. What is coconut husk fiber and where can I buy it?
20. Why does my tree frog change colors?

1. Can I hold my pet amphibian?
It’s best not to handle amphibians. Amphibians have sensitive skin through which they absorb water (drink) and breath. The salts and oils naturally produced by human skin can harm them. Small amounts of soap, lotion, or other products that are on our hands can also cause problems. Many amphibians are also poisonous, and while most present a minimal risk to their keeper, it is still safest to avoid handling. If you have to handle your amphibian, such as during tank maintenance or to bring it to a vet, make sure your hands are moist or use a wet aquarium net.

2. Are mealworms a safe food to use?
In general, mealworms are a safe food to feed to most reptiles and amphibians. Problems usually only occur when they make up a large portion of the diet. Mealworms have a hard exoskeleton that is difficult for some reptiles and amphibians to digest, so it’s best to avoid feeding them in large quantities or frequently. They are also high in fat and when fed often mealworms can lead to obesity. There seem to be stories around about mealworms eating through the stomach of captive reptiles and amphibians if they are fed live, but I have never seen any actual evidence to support this.

3. Can I keep different kinds of amphibians and reptiles together?
It is best not to house more than one species of amphibian or reptile in a cage. There are many reasons for this that I have outlined in an articled titled Community Amphibian Tanks.

4. Do I have to feed my amphibian live food?
The majority of amphibians need to be fed live food. Most rely on movement to trigger a feeding response, so at a minimum the food being offered needs to move. Certain species, such as horned frogs (Ceratophrys species), will accept pre-killed or freeze-dried food from tweezers. Many aquatic amphibians will also eat non-living food, such as frozen fish foods or pellets. Unfortunately, the majority of amphibians will only accept live feeders and will refuse pellet diets or food offered from tweezers.

5. Do you have any amphibians for sale?
I no longer breed amphibians and do not have any for sale.

6. Do I have to hibernate my amphibian or reptile?
Most reptiles and amphibians do not need to hibernate in order to live well in captivity. Some species may require a short dormant period or artificial hibernation in order to reproduce, so if this is your goal research your particular species thoroughly and see if this is required.

7. How do I get amphibians and reptiles to come to my yard?
The best way to get reptiles and amphibians to come to your yard is just to neglect your yard. Let the grass grow, don't remove brush, don’t rake up leaves, etc. Light bulbs can be placed near the ground which will attract insects, and in turn may attract the reptiles and amphibians that eat them. If you can get the food that reptiles and amphibians eat to come to your yard, the herps will follow shortly.

8. I found an amphibian or reptile, how do I take care of it?
This is the number one question that I get asked through email. Often people are camping and they stumble upon a small toad. Other times people find baby turtles near a local lake or pond. Although it can be very tempting to remove a reptile or amphibian from its natural habitat to keep as a pet, I strongly recommend leaving wild animals in the wild until their care is fully understood. Once a cage has been setup and the care of the species of interest has been researched, then it may be okay to go out and collect one. Impulsively bringing a wild reptile or amphibian home often does not result in long term success. I also recommend purchasing reptiles and amphibians that were born in captivity rather than catching them in the wild. Captive-bred reptiles and amphibians generally do better in captive conditions, and although those that are collected from the wild will usually acclimate and adjust to being kept in a cage, starting with a captive-bred herp is normally a much better option.

If it is too late and you already are keeping an animal that you found in the wild there are a few things you will need to do. First, do not release it, particularly if it has been exposed to other captive reptiles and amphibians. It’s also crucially important that you identify the species correctly. There are thousands of reptiles and amphibians in the world and all require different care. Your “average garden toad” could be a number of different kinds of frog that might have different temperature preferences and dietary requirements. The best way to identify the species is to locate a good field guide for the area where the animal was collected. If it was collected locally the library will probably have a suitable guide. If the reptile or amphibian can not be identified in the field guide, a quick search at google.com can often yield good results. Try searching for the words “reptiles and amphibians” and the county, state, province, or country where the animal was collected. This will generally generate at least one or two sites with lists of the species found in the area. From there, the scientific name of different species can be copied and pasted again into the search bar to locate photographs and possibly identify the animal. If you are still having trouble identifying your reptile or amphibian you can send an email to devin@amphibiancare.com with a description of it (or even better a picture under 100k), and the location where you found it. It’s very important that you send me a detailed description that includes size, color, pattern, habits, and other important characteristics, as well as an accurate location such as “Dane County, Wisconsin, USA”, rather than “the pond in my backyard”.

Once the species is properly identified, the next step is to find out what type of care it requires. Again, this is best done by doing another search online for the species name and the word “care”. Often there isn’t care information on the specific species that has been captured, so it may be helpful to look up the care requirements of closely related species that are found in the same area. It’s important to go to multiple sources and compare the suggested care advice. Do not simply trust one care sheet online. If you need help you can send an email to devin@amphibiancare.com

9. I found some tadpoles, how do I take care of them?
Tadpoles are the larval stage of frogs and toads. During the spring and early summer in temperate climates people often collect large numbers to keep and watch grow into frogs. Unfortunately, many don't often grow into frogs because they are not cared for properly. Amphibian populations are declining at an alarming rate due to habitat destruction, pollution, climate change, immerging diseases, and collection of animals for the pet trade. If you have only had the tadpoles for a few days and they have not been housed with other animals I strongly suggest that you let them go in the exact spot that you found them rather than keep them in captivity.

If you can not release them, they are captive-bred, or you are 100% set on keeping them, the first thing to do is identify what species of tadpole you have or at least what general kind of tadpole you have. A very good tadpole identification site is USGS Tadpole Identification Guide. The two most common types of tadpoles that people in the United States collect and send me pictures of are true frog species of the genus Rana and toad species of the genus Bufo. All tadpoles are sensitive to water quality and are should be kept in tap water that has been treated to remove chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals. Some species may take up to three years to fully develop into frogs, while others will morph out in less than six weeks. If you are not prepared to care for adult frogs you should not keep the tadpoles.

Larger tadpoles do best when setup as if they were fish. An aquarium with an overhanging power filter, gravel. and live plants works very well for large species like American bull frog (Rana catesbeiana) tadpoles. In natural setups like this, partial water changes should be done every two weeks. Small tadpoles such as many toad species can be raised singly or in small groups in small plastic containers with a little piece of aquatic plant clipping. Water changes in small containers may need to be done as often as every day. Different types of tadpoles will feed on different things. The majority of species can be raised on high quality fresh water fish flake. Algae wafers, aquatic turtle pellets, and other commercial aquatic animal foods can be ground up into a powder and offered along with the fish flake. Boiled romaine lettuce and spinach can also be offered. Some tadpoles will only feed on small aquatic invertebrates and in these cases the tadpoles should be raised on frozen fish foods like mosquito larvae and brine shrimp. Other tadpoles may only feed on certain species of algae, in which case they should not be raised in captivity. Care should be taken to feed in small amounts frequently, sometimes as often as twice a day.

Once tadpoles develop their front legs the water level will need to be lowered and a land area should be created by gently sloping rocks up out of the water in half of the tank, or by tilting the container to a slight angle. Most species of frogs will not need to be offered food for the first few days after morphing out of the water, but once they do turn into small frogs be prepared by having lots of small insects on hands like crickets and flightless fruit flies. Do not release frogs that you have raised in captivity back into the wild. If you need further help or have additional questions feel free to contact me at devin@amphibiancare.com

10. Is my frog a male or female?
Figuring out what sex a frog is can be difficult. Generally, male frogs call while females do not. Male frogs also are usually smaller and more angular or streamlined in appearance, unlike females which are often larger and more robust. During the breeding season, males of many species will develop what are called nuptial pads on the inner part of their limbs or digits. These look like darkened or rough areas, often brown or black in color, and are used to help the male frog grasp the female during the mating embrace called amplexus. There are many exceptions to the three ways of sexing frogs mentioned above. Not all male frogs call, in some species only females call, and in other species males are larger than females. For this reason it’s usually best to identify what species the frog in question is, and then research that particular type of frog either by looking it up in books or by searching online.

11. My amphibian or reptile might be sick, what should I do?
The first thing to do is to separate that animal from others in the cage. Move it to a new enclosure or container that is simple and clean. After the animal has been quarantined away from other cage mates, contact a veterinarian who has experience with reptiles and amphibians as soon as you can. If you don't know of one locally see Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians. or The Herp Vet Connection Those sites have listings of reptile and amphibian vets from all over the world.

If you are not able to take the animal to the vet right away or feel that you need further assistance you can email me at devin@amphibiancare.com, but realize that I am not a veterinarian. I am not qualified to diagnose or recommend treatment for any reptile or amphibian health problem. Not only am I unqualified to diagnose health problems, it’s nearly impossible to do so without seeing the animal in person. Even experienced veterinarians generally won’t diagnose a medical condition over the Internet without seeing the animal. As a hobbyist, I do have experience with many common reptile and amphibian health problems, and I am willing to offer advice, but before any is taken it should always be double checked with an experienced veterinarian. It also is important to understand that treating an animal that has been diagnosed with the wrong disorder or problem can be even more harmful than not treating the animal at all. When emailing me with a question about your animal’s health, please include a thorough description of what is wrong, and the care conditions that were being provided (temperature, humidity, contents inside the cage, feeding schedule, etc.), as well as any other relevant information.

12. My amphibian or reptile won't eat, what should I do?
Stress, parasites, disease, incorrect temperatures or humidity levels, and being housed with dominant cage mates are just a few reasons why an amphibian or reptile will refuse food. If it is a new herp that you have had for less than a few days do not be concerned. It often takes reptiles and amphibians a while to adjust to their new environment before they start to eat. Do not handle the new animal during this period, and avoid other stressful activities such as changing the new cage setup around.

One of the most common reasons reptiles do not eat is because the temperature is not within the appropriate range. Reptiles are ectotherms and rely on their environment to control their body temperature. If a reptile is being kept in too hot or especially too cold of a temperature range it may refuse to eat. Make sure that there is a thermometer in the cage and, if it is a species that requires a large thermogradient, make sure to check the temperature in the basking area, warm side, and on the cool side of the cage. If you are positive that the care you are providing for the animal is correct and it still refuses to feed you may have a serious health problem that requires the assistance of a veterinarian. To locate one in your area please visit the Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians.

13. My frog or salamander is bloated, what's wrong?
When a frog is bloated it generally is filled with one of two things, a solid or a liquid. When an amphibian appears bloated because it is full of solids it often is due to impaction. Captive amphibians can accidentally swallow some of the substrate they are being kept on while they feed. Certain substrates, such as gravel or small pieces of bark, can become lodged inside of the stomach or intestine and cause problems. Amphibians that are fed a diet that is very high in chitin can also become bloated due to impaction. Sometimes whatever is stuck inside of the digestive tract will work its way out on its own, but more often this health problem requires surgery to fix.

When an amphibian appears bloated because it is full of a liquid it can be related to water quality. Amphibians have a permeable skin and are sensitive to the chemicals in their environment. Even the chlorine and chloramines found in most tap water can cause harm, and over time may cause damage to the kidneys. Kidney failure is common in captive amphibians and can give an amphibian a bloated appearance when they are unable to pass water. Other water quality problems can also cause medical problems that may make an amphibian look bloated, so always ensure that the water being used is safe for amphibians.

Bloating can also be caused by many other ailments, such as infections and nutritional imbalances. In all cases, the amphibian will need to be taken to a qualified veterinarian immediately. To locate a veterinarian that has experience dealing with reptiles and amphibians please see the Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians.

14. My frog is yawning, is this normal?
Generally, when a frog looks like it’s yawning it is actually shedding its skin. Growing juvenile frogs of all species shed their skin on a regular basis, often daily. To conserve all of their nutrients, frogs may eat their skin while shedding, and this can give them the appearance that they are yawning.

15. There are little white bugs in my tank, what are they and is it bad for my animal?
Usually the little white bugs that people see crawling around in their amphibian or reptile tank are harmless springtails. These tiny insects get their name from their ability to use their back end like a spring and leap into the air. They pose no threat to amphibians or reptiles and feed on decaying matter and fungi. They are, however, a sign that the substrate in the cage may need to be changed or has become waterlogged. Springtails usually only show up when there is an excess amount of waste to feed on. They can be beneficial when introduced into living terrariums and will help to break down waste that is produced.

16. There are gnats or fruit flies in my tank, how do I get rid of them?
Fungus gnats and other small flies are common in tropical amphibian tanks when the substrate is either too damp or there are many rotting plant leaves in the tank. To get rid of them change the substrate in the cage and remove any dying or dead plants. If they continue to persist, consider switching to a new substrate.

17. What are good vitamin and mineral supplements to use and how do I use them?
Using high quality vitamin and mineral supplements is a very important, but commonly overlooked, aspect of reptile and amphibian care. The feeder insects that are regularly available do not provide a well-rounded diet and need to be supplemented. Most vitamin and mineral supplements come in a fine powder form, and can be dusted onto the feeders before they are fed to the reptile or amphibian. Often what works well is placing the feeder insects and a small amount of supplements into the same container, and then shaking both around until the feeders are covered in the powder. How much supplement is used, and how often it is used depends on how old the amphibian is, what species it is, and what food items are being used.

There are dozens of brands of supplements on the market, and like most reptile and amphibian products, some are good and some are bad. I use Rep-cal calcium with vitamin D3 ultra-fine powder as a mineral supplement, and Rep-cal Herptivite as a vitamin supplement. I choose this brand because it has been around for a long time, and during this time it has proven to be effective. Miner-all is another high quality mineral supplement to use. When choosing supplements, make sure that they have an expiration date and do not contain both vitamins and minerals in the same formula. Avoid calcium supplements that have a calcium to phosphorus ratio greater than 2:1, and if crickets are being used as the main feeder it may even be better to use a phosphorus-free calcium supplement. Remember to replace supplements every six months after the date they are opened.

18. What is gut loading?
Gut loading is a term used for feeding feeder insects high quality foods before feeding them to your animals. The basic idea behind it is that whatever goes into the feeder insects also goes into the animals that eat them. Crickets make a great feeder insect because they will eat pretty much anything being offered. Crickets should be fed high quality leafy greens like collard greens, mustard greens and turnip greens along with carrots, apples and oats or an oat based cereal before being fed to your animal.

19. What is coconut husk fiber and where can I buy it?
Coconut husk fiber is a great substrate for terrestrial and semi-aquatic amphibians. It is safe if swallowed, holds moisture well, and is easy for amphibians to burrow into. It is sold at many pet stores in the form of compressed bricks that expand when placed into a bucket of warm water. Common brand names include Bed-a-beast, Forest Bed, Plantation Soil and Zoo-med's Eco Earth.

20. Why does my tree frog change colors?
Most tree frogs change colors in response to their environment. Things that can contribute to the color a tree frog is are light intensity, the color of their surroundings, temperature, and humidity. Unusual blotched coloration on a normally solid-color tree frog can also be a sign of stress. Diet can also affect the colors tree frogs display.